Men’s Brief Underwear Construction Costing

Below is a practical factory costing/production guide for men’s brief underwear. I am assuming regular-rise men’s brief, outer waistband elastic, 2 leg bottom piping/binding, size M to 2XL.

1. Fabric types used for men’s brief

For briefs, the most practical commercial fabric is 95% Cotton + 5% Lycra single jersey, 170–180 GSM. Indian suppliers list 95/5 Cotton Lycra single jersey at 180 GSM and 180–190 GSM, including tubular fabric options used for stretch garments. Cotton Modal Lycra is also used for innerwear, with supplier specs around 170 GSM and 32-inch dia. Now a day open width knitting machine available in market, it will be make open with fabric around 60-72 inch dia.

2. Fabric dia / diameter to use

In underwear manufacturing, “dia” usually means tubular fabric lay-flat width, not machine diameter.

For production convenience, you can also use one common dia: 34 inch or 36 inch for M to 2XL, but smaller sizes will have slightly more wastage. For open-width fabric, 60–72 inch open width is also workable; one supplier lists 180 GSM Cotton Lycra at 72-inch open width, while another lists 180–190 GSM Cotton Lycra at 33.5-inch tubular width.

3. How many briefs create from 1 kg fabric?

Formula:

Pieces per kg = 1000 ÷ fabric grams used per piece

for example (pieces per kg 20 = 1000 / 50 gm weigh of one men brief)

Assumption: includes body panels + bottom piping + 10–12% cutting wastage.

Below Calculation is calculated in 62inch dia of fabric

For mixed production of M, L, XL, 2XL, safe average:

150 GSM: around 15–17 briefs per kg
180 GSM: around 13–15 briefs per kg

Actual output depends on pattern, rise height, pouch size, wastage, shrinkage, and whether you cut piping from the same fabric.

4. Bottom piping fabric use

For brief leg opening piping, usually use same fabric strip or rib strip.

Recommended strip width before folding: 30–35 mm

If you use separate elastic for leg opening, then consumption will be around the same length, but cost will increase.

5. Waist elastic use from M to 2XL

For men’s brief, good waistband width is usually 30 mm, 35 mm, or 40 mm. Premium outer elastic can be 35–40 mm. Underwear elastic supplier listings commonly show 25–38 mm and 25–50 mm options. (elastic-tapes.com)

Add 2 cm extra overlap if your machine/operator needs joining margin.

Elastic cost example: if elastic price is ₹13–₹15 per meter, then waistband elastic cost per brief will be roughly ₹9 to ₹13 depending on size. Current supplier listings show underwear elastic around ₹13–₹14.20/meter for relevant underwear tape qualities, though rates vary heavily by logo jacquard, width, rubber quality, and MOQ.

6. Thread consumption and costing

For stretch underwear, polyester or nylon thread is better than cotton thread because underwear stretches during wearing and washing. Cotton thread can be used, but it may break faster in stretch seams.

Approximate thread consumption:

Nylon thread costing

Market listings show nylon sewing thread prices around ₹350–₹390 per kg depending on type and supplier listing.

Assuming 5000 meter cone:

Finally Brief Construction Costing

for example : List of following item with row material price used in men brief.

Assumption: monthly production capacity as per above detail on 26 working days/month
So monthly production = 1000 × 26 = 26,000 pcs
Rent per piece = ₹30,000 ÷ 26,000 = ₹1.15 per pc

Size wise Fabric consumption assumption

For 150 GSM men’s brief, including body fabric + bottom piping + cutting wastage:

Fabric Costing Formula :
Fabric Use per PC = 1kg Fabric Cost / Avg. Of Brief in 1 kg

Example : 23.33rs = 350rs / 15pcs (fabric used in one men brief)

Final Costing Table of Men’s Brief

Recommended brief construction

Use this production flow:

Fabric relaxation → pattern cutting → front pouch joining → crotch joining → side/seat joining → bottom piping attach → waistband elastic attach → bartack → thread trimming → measurement checking → packing

Best machines:

For your premium brief, I would suggest:

Fabric: 95% Cotton / 5% Lycra or Micro Modal Lycra
GSM: 170–180 GSM
Dia: 60–62 inch tubular
Elastic: 35–40 mm soft jacquard elastic
Thread: Polyester/nylon, not cotton, for better stretch durability.